The old town of Naples is sliced in two by the dead-straight Spaccanapoli, and Vesuvio looms over the city — best seen from Vomero. This part of my Naples guide covers what to see: a museum, the cathedral and churches, the underground, an ossuary in Rione Sanità, a fortress, a viewpoint and one shop in Chiaia. The core is the places I saved myself; Cappella Sansevero, Napoli Sotterranea, Santa Chiara, the Duomo, Cimitero delle Fontanelle and Castel Sant'Elmo I added from travel guides — 34travel first of all. All descriptions are compiled from Google Maps reviews; my own notes will follow after the trip.
Ticket prices are from Google Maps reviews, hours from Google; valid as of 7 October 2026. Rate: 1 € ≈ $1.12.
In short
- If you only have time for one: Museo Archeologico Nazionale — the finds from Pompeii and Herculaneum; allow 3–4 hours.
- Book ahead: Cappella Sansevero and its Veiled Christ — tickets on the day often run out.
- Free: Chiesa del Gesù Nuovo, Galleria Umberto I and sunset at Belvedere San Martino.
- Underground: Napoli Sotterranea, with Greco-Roman cisterns and air-raid shelters; about 15 €, cash only at the door.
- Rione Sanità: Cimitero delle Fontanelle, thousands of skulls in a tuff cave; book online, closed on Wednesdays.
- Up by funicular: Castel Sant'Elmo on Vomero, with the whole bay, Vesuvio and Capri.
Centro storico
Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli
Piazza Museo · archaeology museum · ticket about 20 € (≈$23) · 9:00–18:30, closed Tue
Google Maps · website · Piazza Museo, 19
According to Google Maps reviews (4.6 from 37,800+): for many visitors the best museum they've been to — Greek and Roman statues, mosaics and frescoes, above all the finds from Pompeii and Herculaneum that you won't see at the sites themselves. It's huge: allow 3–4 hours and don't miss the Secret Cabinet of ancient erotica. Entry is free on the first Sunday of the month and about 20 € otherwise; buy online to walk straight in. Downside: at least one guest was let down by the audio guide.
Cappella Sansevero
Centro storico · chapel museum · 9:00–19:00, closed Tue
Google Maps · website · Via Francesco de Sanctis, 19/21
According to Google Maps reviews (4.7 from 44,300+): Prince Raimondo di Sangro's small chapel, which people come to Naples for — the marble Veiled Christ, whose shroud looks like sheer fabric. Buy tickets well in advance; photos aren't allowed. The audio guide is recommended, but note that once it leads you out of the main chapel you can't go back, so take your time with the sculptures first. Small as it is, many spend an hour and a half here.
Napoli Sotterranea
Piazza San Gaetano · underground tour · ticket about 15 € (≈$17), cash only at the door · Mon–Fri 10:00–18:00, Sat–Sun 9:30–18:00
Google Maps · website · Piazza San Gaetano, 68
According to Google Maps reviews (4.5 from 32,200+): a tour of underground Naples — Greco-Roman cisterns and aqueducts, WWII air-raid shelters, and the remains of a Roman theatre above ground. Tours run in English and Italian; turn up at opening and you'll wait about ten minutes. It's cool down there, a relief in summer, but there are lots of steps and narrow dark passages — claustrophobics may want to skip parts. Downside: groups follow close behind each other, and the echo and other guides make it hard to hear. 34travel recommends it too (guide).
Duomo di Napoli
Via Duomo · cathedral · daily 8:30–19:30
Google Maps · website · Via Duomo, 147
According to Google Maps reviews (4.7 from 27,000+): a 13th-century cathedral with a neo-Gothic façade that holds the relics of San Gennaro, the city's patron saint. Inside are lavish side chapels and 4th-century mosaics; reviewers advise allowing plenty of time. A guided tour takes you up onto the roof, and on a hot day it's pleasantly cool inside. Twice a year the city waits here for the miracle of the saint's blood liquefying; 34travel recommends it too (guide).
Chiesa del Gesù Nuovo
Piazza del Gesù Nuovo · Baroque church · free · daily 8:00–12:45 and 16:00–19:00
Google Maps · Piazza del Gesù Nuovo, 2
According to Google Maps reviews (4.7 from 19,400+): outside, a stern 15th-century facade of diamond-pointed stones (it was a noble palace first), and plenty of people almost walk past. Inside, full-blown Baroque — frescoes, marble and gold, and far bigger than it looks from the square. Entry is free, no tickets; dress modestly. It closes at midday, from 12:45 to 16:00.
Monastero di Santa Chiara
Centro storico · monastery and majolica cloister · ticket about 7 € (≈$8) · Mon–Sat 9:30–17:00, Sun 10:00–14:00
Google Maps · website · Via Santa Chiara, 49/C
According to Google Maps reviews (4.7 from 390+): a quiet cloister whose walls and benches are covered in majolica tiles with rural, seafaring and mythological scenes, with frescoed ceilings above. The ticket includes a small museum and a library with old books and embroidery; you can easily spend two or three hours. Bare shoulders are fine, but sitting on the tiled benches isn't — guards keep watch. It used to be free. 34travel recommends it too (guide).
Mura Greche
Piazza Bellini · Greek city walls · free · always open
Google Maps · Piazza Bellini
According to Google Maps reviews (4.2 from 650+): remains of the 4th-century BC walls of Neapolis, sunk in the middle of Piazza Bellini. All around are spritz-and-pizza bars, a young crowd and live music at night, so the ancient stones are best viewed glass in hand. Downside: bottles and rubbish often end up in the ruins.
Cimitero delle Fontanelle
Rione Sanità · cave ossuary · Mon–Tue and Thu–Sun 10:00–17:15, closed Wed
Google Maps · website · Via Fontanelle, 80
According to Google Maps reviews (4.5 from 940+): a cave cut into tuff rock holding thousands of skulls and bones, the dead of plagues and epidemics. Visitor numbers are capped, so book tickets on the official website and download the audio-guide app beforehand; groups are led by local guides whom reviewers praise by name. It's customary to tip at the end. Many call it the most powerful thing they saw in Naples. 34travel recommends it too (guide).
Toledo, Chiaia and Vomero
Galleria Umberto I
Toledo · 19th-century shopping arcade · free · always open
Google Maps · website · Via San Carlo
According to Google Maps reviews (4.6 from 15,000+): a late-1800s arcade with a vast glass dome, iron arches and marble floors — people come for the architecture and look up rather than at the shop windows. The shops and cafés inside are ordinary chains, and birds fly around under the dome. One reviewer found it smaller and scruffier than its Milan sister, but it's free and a cool escape on a hot day.
Castel Sant'Elmo
Vomero · fortress and museum · ticket about 5 € (≈$6), cheaper after 16:00 · daily 8:30–19:30
Google Maps · website · Via Tito Angelini, 20/A
According to Google Maps reviews (4.6 from 36,600+): a star-shaped 14th-century fortress on top of Vomero with the best view in town — the whole bay, the port, Vesuvio and Capri. You can walk along the top of the walls; there are art installations inside, but much of the fortress is currently closed. The easiest way up is the Centrale funicular from Augusteo station (about 1.30 € each way). 34travel recommends it too (guide).
Belvedere San Martino
Vomero · viewpoint · free · always open
Google Maps · Largo San Martino, 1
According to Google Maps reviews (4.7 from 4,300+): a free viewpoint a few minutes from Castel Sant'Elmo with the same view over the city, the bay and Vesuvio — some say you can skip the fortress. Best at sunset; plenty of benches, not much shade. There are cafés nearby (Arx Café's espresso gets a mention), and the old Pedamentina steps lead down to the Quartieri Spagnoli with more fine views on the way.
nss edicola
Chiaia · clothing shop · Mon–Sat 8:00–20:00, Sun 8:00–14:00
Google Maps · Piazza San Pasquale
According to Google Maps reviews (4.2 from 70+): a small kiosk-style shop (edicola is Italian for newsstand) on Piazza San Pasquale selling T-shirts and clothes with a Neapolitan feel — fans of the brand make a point of coming. Reviews are mixed: complaints about fabric that doesn't survive the first wash, unfriendly staff and slow delivery of online orders.
One last thing
Museo Archeologico and Cappella Sansevero are both shut on Tuesdays, so don't plan them for that day, and Cimitero delle Fontanelle is closed on Wednesdays. The easiest way up to Vomero is the Centrale funicular from Augusteo, and Belvedere San Martino is best at sunset.
More on Naples: where to eat and drink, coffee and sweets.