Naples is pizza, sfogliatella and the bars around Piazza Bellini. This part of my Naples guide is about food and drink: two trattorias, four pizzerias (one for fried pizza), two pastry shops and four bars. Only Trattoria da Nennella comes from my own saved list; the rest I added from travel guides — 34travel first of all. All descriptions are compiled from Google Maps reviews; my own notes will follow after the trip.
Prices are Google's average spend per person, valid as of 7 October 2026. Rate: 1 € ≈ $1.12.
In short
- Classic pizza: L'Antica Pizzeria da Michele — just margherita and marinara, about 6 € for a huge pizza; Gino e Toto Sorbillo — a longer menu and fried pizza too.
- Sfogliatella: Sfogliatelle Attanasio by the station, warm from the oven from 6 am.
- Lunch with a show: Trattoria da Nennella, where the waiters sing and dance; a starter and main cost about 13 € with a drink.
- Evening: Piazza Bellini, with Caffè Letterario Intra Moenia open till 2 am and Book bar among the bookshelves round the corner.
- Cheap: fried pizza at La Masardona by the station and a 1 € spritz at Cammarota Spritz in the Quartieri Spagnoli; for wine, Enoteca Belledonne in Chiaia, where snacks come free with your glass.
- Seafood: Antica Trattoria e Pizzeria da Donato for fritto misto and spaghetti alle vongole; book ahead.
Pizza and trattorias
Trattoria da Nennella
Toledo · Neapolitan trattoria · 10–20 € (≈$11–23) · Mon–Sat 11:45–15:30 and 18:45–23:30, closed Sun
Google Maps · website · Piazza Carità, 22
According to Google Maps reviews (4.3 from 24,700+): less a lunch than a show — the waiters sing, shout, dance and tease the guests. The room fills and empties in whole shifts, so put your name down at the door and wait. The dish to order is pasta with potatoes and smoked provola; reviewers also like the spaghetti with anchovies and lemon, the meatballs and the sausages. A starter and a main with a drink come to about 13 €, and you may get a limoncello on the way out. Downsides: loud and cramped, plates sometimes cleared before you've finished, and some say the food comes second to the fun.
L'Antica Pizzeria da Michele
Forcella · pizzeria · 1–10 € (≈$1–11) · daily 10:30–23:00
Google Maps · website · Via Cesare Sersale, 1
According to Google Maps reviews (4.3 from 55,600+): the city's most famous pizzeria and the benchmark for Neapolitan pizza. The menu is short — essentially margherita and marinara — and the pizzas are huge, thin and about 6 €; you can watch them being made a few feet from your table. There are two queues, dine-in and takeaway; takeaway moves faster, dine-in takes 20–30 minutes, longer in summer. Downside: one guest says a waiter openly asked for a 10 € tip, which is unusual in Italy. 34travel recommends it too (guide).
Gino e Toto Sorbillo
Via dei Tribunali · pizzeria · 10–20 € (≈$11–23) · Mon–Sat 12:00–23:30, closed Sun
Google Maps · website · Via dei Tribunali, 32
According to Google Maps reviews (4.5 from 31,300+): the original Sorbillo family pizzeria, where the whole chain began — for many, the best pizza of their lives, even after Da Michele. The menu is long: margherita with buffalo mozzarella, signature pizzas and a much-praised fried pizza, plus house wine. You give your name and party size at the door and get called in — even at 9 pm the wait is about half an hour. There's no English menu, and orders can take a while to be taken. 34travel recommends it too (guide).
Antica Pizzeria Di Matteo
Via dei Tribunali · pizzeria · 10–20 € (≈$11–23) · Mon–Sat 11:00–23:00, closed Sun
Google Maps · website · Via dei Tribunali, 94
According to Google Maps reviews (4.2 from 14,400+): on the same Via dei Tribunali, a few doors from Sorbillo. You walk in past the ovens and pizzaioli working flat out, and the tables are upstairs, with the street audible through the balcony doors. Reviewers like the margherita, sausage with friarielli and white pizzas such as the pistachio one. Most people take away, so a table often turns up within 10 minutes even at lunchtime. Downsides: noisy, canteen-like and with brusque service. 34travel (guide) also suggests the fried food here — arancini and croquettes.
Antica Trattoria e Pizzeria da Donato
Near Napoli Centrale station · trattoria & pizzeria · 20–30 € (≈$22–34) · Tue–Sun 12:30–14:30 and 19:00–22:00, closed Mon
Google Maps · Facebook · Via Silvio Spaventa, 39/41
According to Google Maps reviews (4.6 from 4,200+): a family trattoria open since 1956 and now run by the third generation. Reviewers praise the fried seafood, spaghetti alle vongole, octopus pasta and Genovese pasta with slow-cooked onions and beef, the pizza dough and the torta caprese for dessert; bread arrives in a paper bag. Booking ahead is recommended, and there's no pizza on Wednesdays and Sundays. Downsides: service can feel rushed, and one guest found the pasta nothing special. 34travel recommends it too (guide).
La Masardona
Near Napoli Centrale station · fried pizza · 1–10 € (≈$1–11) · Mon–Sat 9:00–16:00, plus Sat 19:00–23:00, closed Sun
Google Maps · Facebook · Via Giulio Cesare Capaccio, 27
According to Google Maps reviews (4.7 from 5,300+): a no-frills spot making pizza fritta, stuffed fried pizza, since 1945; the classic filling is provola, ham and broccoli. Reviewers also love the arancini, frittatine and croquettes; it's all very cheap and, they say, not too greasy. The routine is local: pay at the till, hand your slip to the cooks behind the glass and wait for your name. Handy between trains, as the station is a couple of minutes away and queues are short.
Pastry, coffee and bars
Sfogliatelle Attanasio
By Napoli Centrale station · pastry shop · Tue 6:30–19:30, Wed–Sun 6:00–19:30, closed Mon
Google Maps · Vico Ferrovia, 1
According to Google Maps reviews (4.6 from 7,800+): a small old pastry shop four minutes from the station, baking sfogliatelle on site and handing them over warm and crisp, with ricotta or custard. The system is unusual: take a number from the machine and pay first, then collect — nobody explains it, so you can lose half an hour. Come at opening for the first batches. The babà gets less praise, and there's no coffee — people cross the street to the café opposite. 34travel recommends it too (guide).
Scaturchio
Centro storico · pastry shop and café · daily 8:00–21:00
Google Maps · website · Piazza San Domenico Maggiore, 19
According to Google Maps reviews (4.3 from 6,500+): one of the oldest pastry shops in Naples, on Piazza San Domenico Maggiore. Reviewers praise the sfogliatella with its silky semolina filling scented with orange, cinnamon and cloves — eat it warm — and the ricotta and candied-fruit pastiera, which you can buy whole. Downsides: the babà is called ordinary, a tiny 6.50 € strawberry tart disappointed, and the counter staff can be aloof.
Book bar (Libreria Berisio)
Port'Alba · cocktail bar in a bookshop · 1–10 € (≈$1–11) · daily 10:00–13:30 and 18:00–1:00, Fri–Sat until 2:00
Google Maps · Facebook · Via Port'Alba, 28
According to Google Maps reviews (4.6 from 2,200+): a former bookshop that turns into a bar at night — shelves of books, wood and low light, almost film noir. A huge cocktail list at 6–7 €, with the Negroni and the Sorrento singled out, plus single malts. Downsides: service can be curt and slow, and some found the cocktails bland — it's more about the setting. 34travel recommends it too (guide).
Caffè Letterario Intra Moenia
Piazza Bellini · literary café-bar · 10–20 € (≈$11–23) · daily 10:00–2:00
Google Maps · website · Piazza Bellini, 67/70
According to Google Maps reviews (4.2 from 1,600+): a calm corner of Piazza Bellini — sit in the air-conditioned room, on the plant-covered veranda or on the terrace. By day, coffee (the soy-milk iced coffee is praised) and simple food like lasagne with a glass of wine; at night, cocktails with snacks and live music on the square. Downsides: the kitchen is sometimes closed, drinks cost more than next door, and one guest found the waitress unfriendly. 34travel recommends it too (guide).
Enoteca Belledonne
Chiaia · wine bar · 10–20 € (≈$11–23) · Mon–Sat 9:30–13:30 and 16:30–0:00, Fri–Sat until 1:00; Sun 18:30–0:00
Google Maps · website · Vico Belledonne a Chiaia, 18
According to Google Maps reviews (4.5 from 530+): a neighbourhood wine bar in Chiaia that people return to three nights running. The owner, Ciro, is a character, the staff patiently explain the local wines, snacks come free with your glass, and non-wine drinkers can get a cocktail. Tables outside and further in. Downside: one couple got an Aglianico from a bottle that had been open too long. 34travel recommends it too (guide).
Cammarota Spritz
Quartieri Spagnoli · bar · 1–10 € (≈$1–11) · Mon–Sat 16:30–1:30, closed Sun
Google Maps · website · Vico Lungo Teatro Nuovo, 31
According to Google Maps reviews (4.6 from 2,200+): a tiny bar in a Quartieri Spagnoli alley, famous for its 1 € spritz in a small plastic cup: Aperol, limoncello or a bright blue one. People drink out in the street, and evenings are loud and fun. Downsides: strength varies from cup to cup, the staff sometimes chat among themselves more than they serve, and the toilet isn't the cleanest. 34travel recommends it too (guide).
One last thing
The pizzerias and Attanasio are easiest right at opening: Attanasio bakes from 6 am, Da Michele opens at 10:30. Watch the closing days: Sorbillo, Di Matteo, Nennella and La Masardona don't open on Sundays, and Attanasio and Da Donato are shut on Mondays.
More on Naples: what to see, coffee and sweets.