In Naples, coffee takes a minute at the counter, and something sweet waits behind every other door. This part of my Naples guide covers coffee, pastries and gelato. My saved list has no Naples cafés yet, so all five come from travel guides and 34travel; the two classic pastry shops, Sfogliatelle Attanasio and Scaturchio, are in the where to eat and drink guide. The descriptions are put together from Google Maps reviews. I'll add my own notes after the trip.
Prices are Google's average spend per person, valid as of 7 October 2026. Rate: 1 € ≈ $1.12.
In short
- Sfogliatella: Mary's Sfogliatella, a kiosk in Galleria Umberto I, serves it warm; the classic beats the flavoured versions.
- Coffee on Spaccanapoli: Caffè Ciorfito, espresso at the counter with a glass of water; sitting down costs noticeably more.
- Rione Sanità: Pasticceria Poppella, a fiocco di neve for about 2 €, on the way to Cimitero delle Fontanelle.
- Gelato: Gay-Odin in the old centre and Gelateria Mennella in Chiaia, open until 23:00 at weekends.
Coffee and pastries
Caffè Ciorfito
Spaccanapoli · café & pastry shop · 1–10 € (≈$1–11) · Mon–Sat 6:30–20:00, closed Sun
Google Maps · website · Via San Biagio dei Librai, 90/91
According to Google Maps reviews (4.4 from 1,500+): an old bar on Spaccanapoli where many had the best coffee of their trip, cheap and properly local, with a glass of sparkling water before your espresso; iced coffee in summer. Reviewers praise the sfogliatella frolla, the cornetto with cream and amarena cherries and the graffa with Nutella. Downsides: there are no prices on display and a table can mean a surprising bill, so order at the counter or take away; and the gluten-free labelling is confusing, so coeliacs should double-check. 34travel recommends it too (guide).
Mary's Sfogliatella
Galleria Umberto I · sfogliatella kiosk · 1–10 € (≈$1–11) · Mon and Wed–Sun 8:00–20:30, closed Tue
Google Maps · Galleria Umberto I, 66
According to Google Maps reviews (4.6 from 1,600+): a tiny kiosk in Galleria Umberto I, by the Via Toledo entrance, that many call the best sfogliatella in Naples. It comes warm: the layered shell crackles and the filling caramelises a little in the oven. There can be a queue, but it moves fast. Stick to the classic, reviewers say, as the flavoured versions add nothing, and skip the cannoli and babà here.
Pasticceria Poppella
Rione Sanità · pastry shop · 1–10 € (≈$1–11) · daily 7:00–21:00, Sat till 23:00
Google Maps · website · Via Arena della Sanità, 28/29
According to Google Maps reviews (4.3 from 550+): a pastry shop with a pistachio-green front in the heart of Rione Sanità, where people come for the fiocco di neve, a soft bun filled with whipped cream, for about 2 €. Reviewers also love the light babà, the big sfogliatella and a pink custard-and-wild-strawberry cake for two. Staff are friendly and prices fair; it's busy with tourists but well run. The cannoli impressed less than the rest.
Gelato and chocolate
Gay-Odin
Centro storico · chocolate maker since 1894 & gelateria · 1–10 € (≈$1–11) · Mon–Sat 9:30–20:00, Sun 11:00–19:00
Google Maps · website · Via Benedetto Croce, 61
According to Google Maps reviews (4.5 from 660+): a shop of the old Neapolitan chocolate maker whose gelato reviewers rank among the city's best, natural with no artificial aftertaste. Recommended flavours are Foresta, Ghianda and Crema di Nonna, with praise for banana, strawberry and lemon too; prices are fair. Downsides: staff can be curt and allow only one taste, and one guest found the dark chocolate not intense enough.
Gelateria Mennella
Chiaia · gelateria & pastry shop · Mon–Fri 7:00–21:30, Sat–Sun 7:00–23:00
Google Maps · website · Via Giosuè Carducci, 50/52
According to Google Maps reviews (4.4 from 820+): one of Naples' big names for gelato and pastries, with a wide choice of flavours in a cone or cup, and a medium so generous it's hard to finish. Reviewers praise the cookie gelato, the tronchetto and the seasonal panettone and colomba. Downside: staff come across in reviews as tired and not especially welcoming.
One last thing
In Naples you drink coffee at the counter: it's quicker and cheaper than at a table. Mind the closing days: Mary's Sfogliatella is shut on Tuesdays, Caffè Ciorfito on Sundays. Poppella pairs well with Cimitero delle Fontanelle, as both are in Rione Sanità.
More on Naples: where to eat and drink, what to see.